April 23, 2012
Sunday in Portsmouth

My sister Chelsea and her boyfriend Ed had Sara and I up to their place in Portsmouth last Sunday for a afternoon long feast. The spread was unbelievable. Chelsea put together an impressive array of Mediterranean-style small plates including grilled stuffed squid, Grilled Haddock with a white bean puree and chicken and feta meatballs with tzatziki. Sara and I brought a couple cheeses, a country pate and Gin for the Negronis. It was a incredible introduction to Spring. Thanks Chels and Ed for hosting!

April 14, 2012
100% Versions on 45 Mix

Here’s a recent mix I did of versions from some of my favorite digital and rub-a-dub dancehall 45s. Versions are the B side of a Reggae 7”….usually an instrumental or “dub” version of the A side. Sometimes they are kindof boring….straight instrumentals. Other times they are zonked, hazy studio experiments that yield some truly beautiful results. These are all big, hearty, bubblers….dig in and boom out ya jeep!

Copper Chalice Hi-Fi Presents: 100% VERSIONS Mix Vol.1 by Larrylaw on Mixcloud

March 29, 2012
Napa Cabbage “Dumplings”

Napa Cabbage “Dumplings in dashi with Sauteed Chard and Enoki Mushrooms

This one just kinda popped into my head today. I knew I wanted to stuff cabbage with some kind of seasoned meat but needed it to be a lighter and more interesting affair than your traditional stuffed cabbage in tomato sauce. I LOVE Napa (or Savoy) cabbage and was hoping they had some at whole foods when I arrived. I was in luck…barely….there were 2 ratty looking heads left. Cabbage secured I made me way to the butcher section for the stuffing. I wanted to use shiitakes for the dashi base so I figured a sturdier red meat would go well. I ALMOST grabbed some nice looking ground veal but the grass-fed beef was lighter on the wallet as well as my conscience. In addition I picked up a few shishito peppers, some rainbow chard and a clump of enoki mushrooms. I’d use the peppers as part of the filling and the chard and enokis I’d sauté quickly for accompaniment.

When using cabbage as a “wonton” skin you need to quickly par-boil the leaves. You can do this early in the process and set them aside to cool. It takes a bit of time as you can really only do 2 at a time in a deep 12 inch skillet so I got the shitakes reconstituting and chard in a cold water bath. Once everything was prepped I got to work on the filling and dashi. I took the mushroom liqueur and started a simmer with the centers from the chard and a few chunks of ginger. As the dashi did it’s thing I sauteed the ground beef with some shallots, chopped up the shiitakes, shishito peppers and the tender white parts of a few green onions. At the end I added a light glug of Shoyu and a bit of salt and pepper. Set aside.

I have big, somewhat clumsy hands so I called in Sara for the dumpling making. It is a tedious process and she has the dexterity and attention to detail required for such delicate work….I typically do not. While she rolled, I finished the dashi and quickly sauteed the chard and enokis with a tiny bit of olive oil and white balsamic. The scallion ties proved the most difficult part of the process but Sara managed to make it work beautifully after a few over-stuffed bundles.

The dumplings were SO good and gave the dashi a nice richness. The chard-enoki combo had just the right amount of bitter acidity and worked really well along side the meaty cabbage bundles. I’ll definitely make these again….they sorta beg for some variation with filling and stock. All in all the meal took about an hour and 15 minutes to complete.

We listened to Roxy Music pretty much the entire time. It somehow just made sense.

March 27, 2012
In like a lamb…

March has been pretty busy but I’ve managed to pull off a few notable dishes. Here’s a few of the “hits”. I’ve also been photographing album covers side-by-side that seem to work well together both visually and musically. I see a theme coming together here….

Pan-fried Hake with Black Lentils, Mache and a Cilantro-Habanero Yogurt Sauce 

Best little fried egg sandwich. Iggy’s roll with a fried egg, pancetta and baby greens.

Pairings #1

Cast-iron pizza with Jamon, brussell sprout leaves and lemon slices

Pairing #2

Coconut and red lentil “chowder” with fried tofu and kale

Pairing #3

Saint Paddy’s Day Breakfast. Poached eggs on greens with pancetta and a couple Notch Session Pilsners.

February 27, 2012
Kink Gong - Xinjiang

I’ve been really digging this LP from the mysterious Kink Gong. It’s made up of a bunch of field recordings and soundscapes from Xinjiang province in China. The recordings are beautifully selected, edited, manipulated and mixed into a cohesive LP.  I guess it’s limited to a few hundred copies. If you’re into sound collage stuff, field recordings and/or ethnic jangle I’d grab this right quick.

Check out the LP preview here.

Buy the LP here.

February 12, 2012
Saturdays

Heirloom Navel Orange

Smoked Whitefish on Salad with Chickpea Soup

Pears with yogurt, honey and almonds

Roman Beans

January 30, 2012
January No Blues.

January 19, 2012
Roasted Cod and Shiitake Mushrooms in Red Miso + Oramics

Sara and I are trying to eat a bit healthier these days. This can often pose challenges in the kitchen when one has an affinity for butter and animal fat. In keeping with this resolution of sorts I’ve been trying to cook with as little fats and starches as possible. We’ve also decided that we should incorporate more fish into our diet. We both love fish but it’s not a forgiving ingredient and shopping for a decent piece of fish takes some fore-thought and practice. We recently picked up a couple frozen Cod fillets in anticipation of a mid-week dinner (knowing full-well we wouldn’t cook it that evening so fresh wasn’t gonna cut it). I wanted to try something different with it and came up with this dish using what we had in the fridge and cupboards. Some dried shiitakes, miso fixings (konbu, red miso paste etc) and some wild rice for the side. I reconstituted the mushrooms and used the stock as the base for my miso. Added the konbu and set the mushrooms aside for roasting (allowing them to dry before tossing them with a bit of tamari). I coated the cod fillets in bit of vegetable oil, salt and pepper and roasted them in a 450 degree oven along with the mushrooms for about 12 minutes. While the fish was roasting I finished the broth by adding a tiny bit of beef bullion (better than bullion….always), red miso paste and some shoyu. I then ladled the broth into some shallow bowls and set the fish in the center. Topped it off with the shiitakes, some sliced konbu (from the miso dashi), sliced cucumber and sliced nori. Finished with a couple drops of sesame oil and a sprinkling of black sesame seeds. I did the wild rice in a bit of beef stock and yes….a tiny bit of butter (I couldn’t help myself!).

I recently gripped the wonderful Oram Tapes Vol. 1 4xLP set on Modern Love….so that was the soundtrack for the evening. Cod and Oramics make quite a pairing!

January 16, 2012
Maine you send me….

Last weekend Sara and I went up to Portland, Maine for our annual post holiday getaway. We hit the road Friday after work and stopped in Portsmouth, NH to stay with my sister Chelsea and her boyfriend Ed for the night. Chelsea put together an incredible Asian tapas feast including some seared tuna, broiled beef cups, soba noodles, scallop soup, chicken wings. Our contribution was a bag of Island Creek and Moon Shoals oysters with a home-made shallot and sake mignonette. Sake-vodka martinis were poured, records were spun and many bivalves slurped….it was the perfect introduction to our gastro-weekend in Maine. Slightly hungover Saturday morning we headed north and arrived in Portland just in time to check into our hotel and head over to Novere Res for a couple much-needed beers. I stuck with one of my old standbys; the Peeper Ale while Sara went hard with some high alcohol Porter that impressed our server…it being only around noon for our first round. After squelching our hangovers we walked around town for a bit and settled into Duckfat for an afternoon snack. The rumors were true…the food was fantastic! Duck fat fries are even better than you might imagine and the duck rillettes….well…it’s not called Duckfat for nuffin. BAC and cholesterol levels restored we wandered a bit more, made reservations at Fore Street for dinner and then headed back to the hotel for a quick nap. Our meal at Fore Street was one of the best dining experiences both Sara and I have had in some time. We started with some wood-fire roasted mussels and a bottle of red Sancerre (a very light, some-what fruity and highly drinkable red similar to a Beaujolais). For the main I had wood-fire roasted local rabbit with an apple puree and lentils (definitely the best rabbit I’ve ever had) and Sara had Casco Bay Hake roasted with kale…both just beautiful and simple dishes that affirmed my love for Fore Street and the Portland dining scene. After a couple of whiskeys we trudged out into the cold Portland evening in search of a night cap.

The next day we hiked around the city a bit more and settled into a hearty New England breakfast at the Porthole. Portlanders take breakfast SERIOUSLY and the Porthole didn’t disappoint. I had some incredible home-made corned beef hash (which seems to be a town favorite) Sara had a giant, fluffy lobster omelete…it’s Maine…they put lobster in omeletes! After filling our bellys we did some more walking and then checked out of our hotel, got in the car and headed down to Cape Elizabeth for some picturesque lighthouse viewing and a seaside walk. After a bit of ocean gazing we decided to head back to Portsmouth via Rt. 1 and take in some sights along the way. We stopped off in Kennebunkport for a couple beers at this great little seaside bar called the Ramp. Super small, quaint and friendly; the Ramp quickly made us fall in love with the perfect Maine Sunday afternoon…we could have easily stayed into the night. Instead we continued south back to Portsmouth and met Chelsea and Ed for dinner and drinks around town. We had more oysters at Jay’s and a veritable small plates feast at the Black Trumpet….both exceptional. We woke the next morning and headed back to Boston with yet another hangover and the feeling of satisfaction only a weekend up the New England coast can bring. Food, friends and a beautiful view….it’s all you really need.  

December 23, 2011
Best releases of 2011

2011 was a great year for music….one of the most fruitful in recent years. I had a hard time deducting my list to just these top releases…..so much more could have been included. For my money these were the albums, 12”s and EPs that rose above the rest. Please note that none of these lists are in any kind of order

Top 11 ALBUMS:

BNJMN - Plastic World (Rush Hour)

Planetary Assault System - The Messenger (Ostgut Ton)

Mark Fell - Periodic Orbits Of A Dynamic System Related To A Knot (Emego)

Mike Weis - Loop Current/Raft LP (Barge)

Andy Stott - Passed Me By LP (Modern Love)

Red Horse - Red Horse LP (Type)

Hyetal - Broadcast LP (Acre)

Oneohtrix Point Never - Replica LP (Software)

Cut Hands - Cut Hands (Very Friendly)

Ricardo Donoso - Progress Chance LP (Digitalis)

Pete Swanson - Man With Potential (Type)

Top 11 12”/7”/EP:

Gerry Reid - Untitled/Legs 12” (Fourth Wave)

Miles - Facets EP (Modern Love)

Suzanne Kraft - Green Flash EP (Running Back)

Aardvark/Duster Valentine - Tracks form the Vault Vol.1 12” (Rush Hour)

No UFOs - Mind Controls the Flood EP (Public Information)

Ekoplekz - Fountain Square EP (Mordant)

Cooly G - Landscapes 12” (Hyperdub)

Actress - Rainy Day Dub 12” (Honest Jons)

Holy Other - With U EP (Triangle)

Farben - Xango EP (Faitiche)

Todd Terje - Ragysh 12” (Running Back)

Top 11 REISSUES:

The Bachs - Out of the Bachs LP (Time Lag)

Tyree - Nuthin Wrong 12” (Mojuba Underground)

Scott Tuma - Not For Nobody LP (Immune)

Condrad Schnitzler - Ballet Statique LP (Minimal)

Matsuo Ohno - I Saw The Outer Limits LP (EM Records)

Sluggy and Nitty Gritty - Cocaine / Dollars 12” (Digikiller/King Kustom)

Arthur Russell - Let’s Go Swimming EP (Audika)

Pump - The Decoration Of The Duma Continues LP (Forced Nostalgia)

Erkin Koray - Meçhul: Singles & Rarities LP (Sublime Frequencies)

Nick Nicely - Elegant Daze: 1979-1986 LP (Captured Tracks)

Branda Ray - Starlight 12” (EM Records)

Top 5 COMPILATIONS/MIXES:

Prosumer - Panorama Bar 03 CD (Ostgut Ton)

V/A - Ongaku 70: Vintage Psychedelia In Japan LP (Hiruko Records)

ATA - Live At Robert Johnson Vol. 7 CD (Live at Robert Johnson)

V/A - Chicago Dance Tracks LP(s) (Rush Hour)

v/A - Brand New Wayo (Comb and Razor)

Label of the Year: Modern Love